At last, now ready to fit.
What a job, but worth every minute.
I asked when I was getting the flocking done what would be the easiest way to remove old flocking and they said sand it off with a DA. It was really important to clean up round the rivets because anything left would show when re-flocked.
The flocking was a bit more expensive than I had hoped, £400 but the finish is great and Nikki at Banbury flocking did a super job. With £200 spent getting someone to clean up and spray the base (I rollered the top to get a slight "textured"finish) I will have spent close on £1000 in total and hours and hours of work.
Regards and many thanks for everyones help and advice.
Christine
Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
- Attachments
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- Inside show the flocked roof, we mixed the flock starting with a light grey adding handfulls of black bright red and electric blue to get close to the original. The old flock looked brown but where it was covered with the wooden blocks that the hinges screw into I had a sample or what it would have looked like when new. I could have gone a bit darker but decided to keep it lighter.
- RMS
- Posts: 2236
- Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:02 am
- Location: Near Wakefield, UK, in God's own Country!
Re: Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
That looks fantastic Kip - well done, it looks well worth the effort
I know what you mean about 'slight adjustments'! On the ones I've replaced not one of them has sat flush and lifted cleanly on the first go, despite using exactly the same measurements as the original woodwork - I wonder if Searle had the same 'adjustments' to do on each one
Did you re-fit the glass yourself or get a 'professional' in? Just wondered if you/they had used sealant on the rubber to metal, and/or rubber to glass? I know it's a weak point on most of the roofs I know of, including mine and I replaced the seals with new
Sikaflex and Captain Tolley are good friends with my windows
Cheers,
Robin.
I know what you mean about 'slight adjustments'! On the ones I've replaced not one of them has sat flush and lifted cleanly on the first go, despite using exactly the same measurements as the original woodwork - I wonder if Searle had the same 'adjustments' to do on each one
Did you re-fit the glass yourself or get a 'professional' in? Just wondered if you/they had used sealant on the rubber to metal, and/or rubber to glass? I know it's a weak point on most of the roofs I know of, including mine and I replaced the seals with new
Sikaflex and Captain Tolley are good friends with my windows
Cheers,
Robin.
1967 109" Carawagon 200TDi
1972 109" SW Carawagon 2.5NA
1958 109" Carawagon 2.25P (project)
1972 109" Carawagon 200 or 300TDi (project)
1974 Dormobile 2.25D (project)
(Robin on S2C forum)
1972 109" SW Carawagon 2.5NA
1958 109" Carawagon 2.25P (project)
1972 109" Carawagon 200 or 300TDi (project)
1974 Dormobile 2.25D (project)
(Robin on S2C forum)
Re: Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
Hi,
I fitted the glass myself, new rubber seals. I joined the ends using sikaflex cutting the rubber 15mm too long so that it was a tight fit when pushed into place. Coh Baines sell a tool for putting the claytonite rubber seals and infill strip in, the cheaper one they sell does the job well and has different shaped ends for different size seals. I used low modulus silicone sealer between the metal and rubber and also between the glass and rubber.
I think while it is all dry I will just run some captain tolley's round to be on the safe side. Someone at work had run off with my low modulus clear silicone so I had to use black.....you can imagine the mess cleaning it all up. I will let you know where it leaks. For now it is still in the dry, I don't want to put it outside yet but looking forward to fitting it to the landy. I may even need to run a fine bead of sikaflex between the glass and rubber especially on the skylight, because of the sloped panel I think the water will sit.
Regards Christine
I fitted the glass myself, new rubber seals. I joined the ends using sikaflex cutting the rubber 15mm too long so that it was a tight fit when pushed into place. Coh Baines sell a tool for putting the claytonite rubber seals and infill strip in, the cheaper one they sell does the job well and has different shaped ends for different size seals. I used low modulus silicone sealer between the metal and rubber and also between the glass and rubber.
I think while it is all dry I will just run some captain tolley's round to be on the safe side. Someone at work had run off with my low modulus clear silicone so I had to use black.....you can imagine the mess cleaning it all up. I will let you know where it leaks. For now it is still in the dry, I don't want to put it outside yet but looking forward to fitting it to the landy. I may even need to run a fine bead of sikaflex between the glass and rubber especially on the skylight, because of the sloped panel I think the water will sit.
Regards Christine
Re: Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
Hi, I'm new to this forum, very impressed with the roof build, I'm looking for a roof for my 6 cylinder 109 and hadn't thought of building one until I saw this. Did you start from scratch from plans or copy an old one? Bet it took some patience to get it all sealed up and opening properly!
- RMS
- Posts: 2236
- Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:02 am
- Location: Near Wakefield, UK, in God's own Country!
Re: Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
It was a restoration of an existing Carawagon roof.
To make one from scratch requires a couple of sheets of 'special' alloy - the roof panel isn't ordinary aluminium which would work harden and crack with constant bending and straightening.
I've restored three Carawagon roofs (see HERE for one), with new marine ply, seals etc. but used the original 'alloy' panel.
I've still got another two to do on my project Carawagons.
There are easier ways to make a lifting roof - look at things like X-Panda or any of the modern roofs which hinge at one side or the front or rear.
Cheers,
Robin.
To make one from scratch requires a couple of sheets of 'special' alloy - the roof panel isn't ordinary aluminium which would work harden and crack with constant bending and straightening.
I've restored three Carawagon roofs (see HERE for one), with new marine ply, seals etc. but used the original 'alloy' panel.
I've still got another two to do on my project Carawagons.
There are easier ways to make a lifting roof - look at things like X-Panda or any of the modern roofs which hinge at one side or the front or rear.
Cheers,
Robin.
1967 109" Carawagon 200TDi
1972 109" SW Carawagon 2.5NA
1958 109" Carawagon 2.25P (project)
1972 109" Carawagon 200 or 300TDi (project)
1974 Dormobile 2.25D (project)
(Robin on S2C forum)
1972 109" SW Carawagon 2.5NA
1958 109" Carawagon 2.25P (project)
1972 109" Carawagon 200 or 300TDi (project)
1974 Dormobile 2.25D (project)
(Robin on S2C forum)
Re: Roof finished, Captain tolley's at the ready!
Thanks for the reply, have looked at the other options but like the design and engineering of the carawagon roof, will have to keep looking for a roof to rebuild.