Re: new roof
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:57 pm
Oh dearbigdave wrote:It still leaks like seive!
Back to the drawing board
Where is it leaking Dave? Seals or loose rivets?
Robin.
Where is it leaking Dave? Seals or loose rivets?
Robin.
Page 3 of 3
Where is it leaking Dave? Seals or loose rivets?
Robin.
Re: new roof
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:19 am
All of the above!. I think I've got it now. Alice's bed is made, there's a new fridge box and a couple of old bits of wood replaced here and there. I just wish I had time to get it finished.
Re: new roof
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:43 am
Can you post what methods you used to cure the leaks Dave?
As you know, this is a persistent problem on many Carawagon roofs so every little hint/tip could be useful
Cheers,
Robin.
As you know, this is a persistent problem on many Carawagon roofs so every little hint/tip could be useful
Cheers,
Robin.
Re: new roof
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:25 am
On mine, the majority of the problems were at the joint between the original roof and the aluminium angle base of the lift up roof. There were also issues at the front where the raised section of roof under the roof rack was leaking between the vertical sections of the wooden roof rack and the aluminium fillets inside.Finally, the joint between the main part of the roof and the channel that bolts to the windscreen and sides was leaking. Sikoflex cured most of the leaks but I had to pour low viscosity epoxy resin in to the channel to cure that problem.
Re: new roof
Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:32 am
Hi,
When restoring my 1975 carawagon roof I expected to find something in the void of the ridge between the joined sheets, was surprised to find nothing.
Having stripped all the old flocking and paint off (hours of prep.) It would have been much quicker to make a new one.
I bought another 1968 carawagon back body and roof a couple of years back and need to make a new flat bendy section, I have the old one as a pattern but it is far too badly bent and torn to fix, I would be very interested to hear how you did it.
Regards Christine
When restoring my 1975 carawagon roof I expected to find something in the void of the ridge between the joined sheets, was surprised to find nothing.
Having stripped all the old flocking and paint off (hours of prep.) It would have been much quicker to make a new one.
I bought another 1968 carawagon back body and roof a couple of years back and need to make a new flat bendy section, I have the old one as a pattern but it is far too badly bent and torn to fix, I would be very interested to hear how you did it.
Regards Christine
Re: new roof
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 9:44 pm
Hi Christine,
I got the aluminium sheet from a supplier in Blackburn ( I think it was). I had the six parts cut to size but decided to leave the alpine windows out. They are just another way of getting dripped on and don't let much extra light in. Once i got the parts home i etch primed them and painted the exterior white. Then it was a case of riveting it all together. I made a bench out of plywood that could support the entire flat roof and measured and drilled the holes using un-popped rivets to keep it all lined up. To get the spine formed I used a piece of 19mm ply with the edges rounded off along the long sides with a 1/2" round over bit in the router. A bit of brute strength was required to get the final shape.
Then I cut out all the woodwork using the old pates as templates and finished off the edges with a flush router bit and cut the rebates for the rubber seals with a slot cutter again in the router.
Then it was a case of assembly...
If I did it again I would do it a little differently.
The assembly order should be:-
Rivet the sheets together etc.
Attach the long sides to the lift up roof hinges
Assemble the arced supports to the roof and make sure that there is no way water can get through the rivet holes (its hard to see later)
Now attach the lift up section to the main roof ensuring that the lift up section rests easily on the arced supports.
*note, this is very important as the deployment and stowage of the lift roof depends on it*
Now fit the fillets. Start at the top hinge then, using a jack and a wood baton extension, push the lift up section into the fully raised position before screwing the bottom of the fillet on to the lower hinges ensuring that the seals meet up and keep the weather out.
Make no mistake, it's a very difficult task.
Now check for leaks.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again...
You get the idea
I got the aluminium sheet from a supplier in Blackburn ( I think it was). I had the six parts cut to size but decided to leave the alpine windows out. They are just another way of getting dripped on and don't let much extra light in. Once i got the parts home i etch primed them and painted the exterior white. Then it was a case of riveting it all together. I made a bench out of plywood that could support the entire flat roof and measured and drilled the holes using un-popped rivets to keep it all lined up. To get the spine formed I used a piece of 19mm ply with the edges rounded off along the long sides with a 1/2" round over bit in the router. A bit of brute strength was required to get the final shape.
Then I cut out all the woodwork using the old pates as templates and finished off the edges with a flush router bit and cut the rebates for the rubber seals with a slot cutter again in the router.
Then it was a case of assembly...
If I did it again I would do it a little differently.
The assembly order should be:-
Rivet the sheets together etc.
Attach the long sides to the lift up roof hinges
Assemble the arced supports to the roof and make sure that there is no way water can get through the rivet holes (its hard to see later)
Now attach the lift up section to the main roof ensuring that the lift up section rests easily on the arced supports.
*note, this is very important as the deployment and stowage of the lift roof depends on it*
Now fit the fillets. Start at the top hinge then, using a jack and a wood baton extension, push the lift up section into the fully raised position before screwing the bottom of the fillet on to the lower hinges ensuring that the seals meet up and keep the weather out.
Make no mistake, it's a very difficult task.
Now check for leaks.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again.
Fix the cause and check again...
You get the idea
Re: new roof
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:55 am
Hi Dave,
Thank you for your reply, this week I am hoping to get the roof back together, I collected the top sheet from Banbury flocking services yesturday no photos yet as it is wrapped in bubble wrap (it is looking really good).......Then I can start on the next one.
I will need to make a new bendy roof sheet, I have what is left of the original as a pattern, not a bad idea leaving out the alpine windows in the roof, they definitely cause some problems, it was those leaking that wrecked the flock lining to the roof and the narrow narrow edges are very vunerable to damage when working ion the roof. The military carawagons did not have them.
Hopefully there will be some roof raising photos soon
Regards Christine
Thank you for your reply, this week I am hoping to get the roof back together, I collected the top sheet from Banbury flocking services yesturday no photos yet as it is wrapped in bubble wrap (it is looking really good).......Then I can start on the next one.
I will need to make a new bendy roof sheet, I have what is left of the original as a pattern, not a bad idea leaving out the alpine windows in the roof, they definitely cause some problems, it was those leaking that wrecked the flock lining to the roof and the narrow narrow edges are very vunerable to damage when working ion the roof. The military carawagons did not have them.
Hopefully there will be some roof raising photos soon
Regards Christine